Grès's signature fragrance was Cabochard, created by Bernard Chant, and launched in 1958. [7] As of January 2017 [update], Cabochard is still being manufactured and retailed. Other perfumes, launched after the sale of the company, include: That's how I felt when I sprayed on the newest version of Cabochard. Yes, there is already known, and yet... it already wanted to spread the unfortunately so often experienced disappointment, if once again a fragrance classic reformulated to pretend as if he was the ancestor. Well well, the money is to be taken care of, you can use it now and then and consume it in such a way... but it's a shame. Pierre Guillaume Bois Blond (now d/ced) – an all the time/any time favorite. Hay, woods, amber, musk OK, my comparison values are AE and Scherrer - both rather durability monsters as well as Sillage monsters ...). Do you know the situation at a class reunion, when you are confronted by someone you used to know well, you have had good times with him, you also find familiar facial expressions and language and yet you are still a stranger?

I’d love to find some more vintage – I have a little vintage Fendi and Coco. Would like to find vintage Mitsouko and believe it or not, Old Spice. Cabochard (meaning “stubborn” in French), was orchestrated in 1959 by Madame Gres herself, along with a little help from Nose Bernard Chant of Aramis and the iconic Aromatics Elixir fame, to name but a few of his prolific creations. Slowly the smell leads me deeper into the forest and closer to the ground. It becomes more woodsy, heavier, sweeter, warmly spicy and a little bit earthy, but never musty or stuffy; I always feel the scent as somehow "fresh", as if a mild wind is blowing in the forest landscape. Cabochard starts with citrus and deep green notes. It is a dark fragrance right from the start, and the leather is apparent almost immediately. The floral notes are muted: when smelled from a distance they are barely noticeable, from up close, the jasmine is more obvious but still seems to weave in and out. It dries down to an animalic leathery chypre with woods, moss, and a touch of smoke. It stays very dry for the first hour, then starts to take on a hint of sweetness from the patchouli. Interestingly, as we reach the dry down Cabochard 2019 takes a left turn towards comfort. The leather is now a very expensive, supple suede and is joined by amber, sandalwood and a dry tobacco note. The note list says coconut but I get none of it. This final stage stays linear but fades to nothing in the coming hours.The name Grès was a partial anagram of her husband's first name and alias. He was Serge Czerefkov, a Russian painter, who left her soon after the house's creation. [5] Grès enjoyed years of critical successes but, after Grès herself sold the business in the 1980s to Yagi Tsucho, a Japanese company, they hired Lloyd Klein as the artistic director for the entire house supervising 46 licencies between Paris and Japan, at the time Klein was offered one of the highest salaries of 150 000FRF per month and an annual fee of 12millionFRF after the death of Madame Grès, Lloyd Klein left the house to continue his collections in New York. By 2012, the last Grès store in Paris was closed. [6] Parfums Grès [ edit ] Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management. Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9. He starts green and herbaceous and yes the aldehydes are noticeable there but at least not as strong and unpleasant as first assumed. I find the fragrance round, gentle and very well cared for. After the many descriptions of the older editions I would have imagined him to be more "adventurous" or "unruly" - but I don't experience that at all: For me he is something for every occasion. Special and rather harsh than sweet, but not pushy; friendly and affectionate. I am not especially fond of leather in fragrance, but Cabochard is very soft and smooth once it calms. As Guy Robert explains:

The first spray is Ginger Wine or Sherry, very loud and very swiftly over. Then you get the talcum powder again, but when I waited for ten minutes I was rewarded with a fabulous Incense/Patchouli Leather fragrance that was worth about five times what I paid. Naturally it’s been reformulated into submission, but I don’t have the vintages to compare it to. When this has jumped out of the bottle it’s not so good, but when it’s gone to sleep on your skin, it’s divine. It reminds me of Leather that has been worn to Church, with a hint of papery dry Tobacco. The Tobacco note is not one of toxic exhaled smoke, but more one of the smell inside a Tobacconists, where the pipe smoke and cigars rub shoulders, giving off an aroma of dark, dried leaves. Cabochard is often described as a softer take on the animalic darkness of Bandit. Indeed, if Bandit were to be polished to remove its rough edges, to soften its aggressive nature, and to mute its smoky leather, the result would be Cabochard, a leather chypre that is as assertive as it is graceful. A mélange of rich green notes, which is reminiscent of sliced green peppers and succulent leaves, creates an elegant transparent layer, under which an accord dominated by smoky leather is evident from the start. The leather reminiscent of a similar note in Chanel Cuir de Russie is subtle at first, hinting gently as to what might be present underneath the verdant radiance. Its strength grows over time, and as the hesperidic effervescence fades, calm darkness overtakes the composition. Hey Posse. I do love a leather and up till my meeting of Le Galion Aesthete and Bottega Veneta EdP I thought Bernard Chant was the undisputed king of leather. Seeing that he did a few fragrances with much the same story but each a refined version of the original. Cabochard was the original in 1959. Recently I bought a brand new EdT tester in the renovated bottle. In one of my purges I sold all my Cabochard except a parfum and was reminiscing about layering the EdT over the extrait. The extrait is rich and gorgeous but the EdT adds so much throw and sizzle.

Only the durability is a bit sad on my skin. After a few hours it is so close to my body that I have to spray again - and with two sprayers of conviction much more generously than I usually do.