matthewn5: Singer sewing machine oil. Cheap and lasts for ever. I use Muc-off wet lube as a flushing oil to clean the chain, wipe it off, then apply sewing maching oil, wiping off excess. The chain feels so plush afterwards, it's lovely. In general you should always clean your chain thoroughly before lubricating it if you're using conventional lube; lubing a dirty chain will just wash grit into the links where it causes wear. While we didn’t specifically ask for readers’ grease and bike wash preferences, dozens of readers chimed in with recommendations for these products. So, if you’re looking for a good grease to use on your bike (please, not the chain!), it seems you can’t go wrong with Phil Wood Waterproof Grease or Park Polylube 1000. I waxed 6 new chains and then just rewax when required (so far I've only needed to do the indoor trainer bike's chain). Should I actually be cleaning off an outdoor chain before rewaxing? Looked at some standard grease in a hardware shop at the weekend - decided to send off for some TF2, a fraction of the quantity, because it's labelled as "for bikes".

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Prior to a training ride, I scrubbed the chain completely clean, then oiled with ProLink. 40 miles later, I put Results from wiping a clean chain with 40 miles on it. If you take the time to look after your bike well, or you’re a racer or rider of a super high-end bike in the sunshine then dry lube is the way to go, and we found these were the most popular among the road.cc team, in particular Squirt chain lube, which is tenacious enough to use in crummy conditions too. If you prefer to keep your bike in pristine condition and are happy regularly cleaning and servicing your bike, a dry lube might be the right choice. Because it doesn’t attract grit and dirt like a wet lube, you can simply add a new application of dry lube to keep the drivetrain running sweetly.

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Mungecrundle: Having run out of dry lube, I used some Wurth motorcycle chain wax and have been using it ever since. Dries in a few minutes, keeps the chain clean and running smoothly. Only shortcoming is that as a spray lube you need to be careful that it doesn't get to where it isn't supposed to be. Preparing my daughters bike for her next Criterium, I used Blast Off degreaser to clean the cassette, PRO Towels to make sure the chain is spotless and now my daughter is finishing by cleaning up the bike with Bike Shine. After using Blast Off, quite a bit of the dirt and grime went onto the frame. We took a clean rag and hit it with about 3 squirts of Bike Shine. One light swipe and the grime is gone! I was really impressed how easy it was. No rubbing or scrubbing, just a lite wipe and the frame is spotless.

PROGOLD Lubricants Extensive Review - Bike Test Reviews PROGOLD Lubricants Extensive Review - Bike Test Reviews

Oh and that was periodically degreasing and washing the chain completely and then relubing with car full synthetic oil. I wouldn't do it on a spendy chain but then I wouldn't use those spendy chains on a bike that gets taken out in all the shitty conditions the UK weather will throw at you. The reason I stopped doing that was that the wax treatment only lasted a week or two unless topped up with some other wax lubricant (e.g. Smoove), so in the end I thought it was less trouble to just go with the pre-made lubricant. Aerodynamic, or wind drag, is the biggest obstacle to going fast. Friction in the drivetrain also contributes to overall drag but a modern drivetrain is in the region of 90-98% efficient, depending on the condition of the chain and several other factors. The downside I’ve found is that I store my bike in my office at work, and ProLink reeks like an oil refinery. I added some patchouli oil to the bottle, and now my office reeks like a hippy oil refinery. — Joe B. Note: this is a concentrated degreaser and meant to be diluted with water. ProGold recommends 1 part degreaser with 3 parts water. After testing this on various items, my opinion is that this concentration depends on what you are cleaning.The other day, I went to put my bike in the SUV and noticed some crud all over one of the aluminum ‘mag’ wheels. Seemed to be a combination of either a dog or cat finding my wheel coupled with some road tar. I tested several other manufacturers products which claim to ‘foam away’ wheel dirt, but none worked like spraying a little full strength ProGold Degreaser+Wash and using one of their PRO Towels. After about 15 seconds of minimal elbow grease, the stain was reduced 90%. No other cleaner I tried even came close to removing this stain.After the training ride, I used this degreaser full strength spraying it directly on the dirty/greasy cassette. Since I was also using a brush dipped in water, this made for the perfect concentration. After a light spray-off from a hose, the cassette was very clean with 95% of the grease and crud removed.If using on the frame, I recommend using their 1:3 dilution. Take a clean towel, soak in water, lightly ring, then spray 2-3 squirts onto the wet towel. Ring the town out slightly and this will be the perfect concentration for your frame. So far, no paint has been harmed using this concentrationProLink Chain Lube is a ‘thin-bodied’ lubricant which utilizes metal friction reducer technology for smooth shifting and a quiet drive train. So, I have been adding drop wise to the top of the roller for a few years now, the thing that I discovered was that if I did a small drop on each roller and then after doing the full chain doing another drop, it seemed to aid penetration and staying power. With overnight set up and wiping down before riding. I might lose a little more on the rag but it seems to work for me. I have found it best to over-lube the chain, and then wipe it down the next morning before the ride. This gives the ProLink chain oil a chance to soak in — working itself between the pins, bushings and plates. The chain will then be able to perform at

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mikepridmorewood: I've had 10,000k out of a chain by cleaning with wet wipes and lubricating with GT85 Xtreme is more waterproof than ProLink and ideal for winter racing/training – road, cyclocross, MTB. Xtreme can also be used in dry road racing conditions as well, but since it is more expensive than ProLink, and offering nominal advantage in dry conditions, I recommend ProLink for all dry conditions and Xtreme in hard-use/wet environments.

USER REVIEWS

Do you need 6 chains for multiple bikes or do chains not last as long with waxing vs oiling? I'm guessing two chains is a good idea as unlike oil, you can't wax a chain in 30secs before a ride? From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear. Chain lube (or anything really) should NOT have PTFE in it. Why not? It’s exceptionally bad for the environment. Actually it’s inordinately bad for everything. Dry lube comes out of the bottle wet, commonly a fast-flowing liquid but once it dries it leaves a wax film on the chain. It’s this wax that provides the necessary lubrication, the liquid is simply the carrier for the wax. visionset: How many miles you get out of chain is irrelevent unless you also state oyur maintenance philosophy. If you are running the whole drive train into the ground (or at least cahin and cassette) you probably can get 10,000 miles out of it. No one is gonna be impressed with the shfiting on said drive train after say 3000 miles. Or alternatively you intend to keep your cassette throun many chains, and you can for probably 10 chains if you wear to 100.2% Yep that's just 0.2% of wear. equates to about 5mm of 'stretch'. Over this and you start to shag the cassette. If you are on Ultegra or better then the latter approach is cost effective and always a crisp change to boot.

chain lubes 2023 - road.cc Best bike chain lubes 2023 - road.cc

I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year. Oh boy, you wouldn't like how I got only 500 miles out of my last chain (Shimano HG40) before it was stretched 1%. That's with obsessive wiping after every ride. On a city bike. Boatsie: I used vegetable oil once. Smooth as.. At end of ride I must have collected a sandbox worth of sand though.. Grindy as. I really wish we had asked folks where they live to see if there is a correlation with trail conditions and their choice of lube type, because there should be a close relationship if people are choosing lube correctly. Still, it’s interesting to note that mountain bikers are pretty evenly split between wet lubes and dry lubes. (If you’re not sure what a hybrid lube is, you didn’t read Chris’s article yet. Do it.) Popular Greases and Bike Wash ProductsAnd if you’re wondering why you can’t use WD40 or GT85, they’re water displacement products and should only really be used after cleaning your bike and before correct lubrication. They have some lubricating properties, and plenty of uses on bikes and round the house, but they're not up to the job of keeping a bike chain properly protected.